No need for heavy cream

Heavy cream is an incredibly versatile ingredient that enhances everything from soups to desserts. Before my days as a line cook in a Washington, D.C. bistro, I had never cooked with heavy cream. While we did not drown foods in the ivory delight, at the D.C. restaurant we used it in a few appropriate dishes: chocolate ganache, lobster bisque, whipped cream.

When I later joined a team of hospital chefs, we were cautioned by the nutritionists to avoid using butter, heavy cream, alcohol, and salt in food for patients. How was the food supposed to taste like anything? Committed to minimizing saturated fat and sodium in our meals, we sought recipes that relied up olive oil, coconut milk and pomegranate juice among other nutrient rich ingredients. The idea was not to eliminate Creamed Spinach and buttery Mashed Potatoes from the menu, but to offer Swiss Chard with Raisins and Slivered Almonds, and Hummus as well.

This week is the start of my home's spring kitchen clean-out in preparation for spring produce. The time for asparagus, peas, spring onions and crunchy lettuce is drawing near and our refrigerator must be gradually emptied to make room for spring's gifts. Today’s chosen victim: broccoli. Cream of broccoli soup, perhaps?

Hearing of the devastation left by two recent earthquakes in Haiti and Chile, I am incredibly grateful for all my resources, including a fully stocked kitchen. Rather than head to the grocery store for a $4 quart of heavy cream, I donated that money to an organization that could use a small financial lift. Every cent counts, right?

Instead of Cream of Broccoli soup, I consulted a basic recipe for vegetable puree. My priority was to use all of the broccoli with a few flavor-balancing ingredients. Of course, achieving a pleasing texture and creating a minimal mess and were also of great importance.

The resulting dish was a satisfyingly rich Puree of Broccoli with Toasted Almonds. A flavorful and fulfilling starter soup sans a drop of heavy cream, making it vegan and lactose-free.

Puree of Broccoli with Toasted Almonds

Yield: 1 qt/ 4 servings

Ingredients

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 shallot, small diced*

1 celery stalk, small diced

2 small broccoli, crowns and stems, small diced

Water, sufficient to cover the ingredients

1/2 c almonds, raw, skin on toasted

1 tsp kosher salt

1/8 tsp ground nutmeg

1/8 tsp ground white pepper

*Small dice: 1/4 in x 1/4 in x 1/4 in

Suggested equipment: Cutting board, chef's knife, three small bowls, medium saucepot, large mixing spoon, teaspoons, a strainer, blender, a tasting spoon

Method

Sweat the shallots and celery in the olive oil over medium heat. When the shallots have become translucent, add the small diced broccoli stems. Sweat for an additional minute.

Add the broccoli florets and cover everything with water. Bring the water to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until the broccoli stems and florets are soft. Meanwhile, toast the almonds in a 325F oven for 7-8 minutes or until the insides are golden. Chop the almonds and reserve 2 Tbsp for garnish.

Strain the vegetables from the liquid. Reserve the liquid. Place the almonds, vegetables, salt, nutmeg and pepper in the blender. Blend at the lowest speed and gradually increase the speed as you pour in the reserved liquid to achieve a smooth consistency. Add additional fresh water if needed to smooth out chunks and grit.

Enjoy with chopped toasted almonds as garnish.

Photos Puree of Broccoli with Toasted Almonds